Project Lego Technic

Not your average Savage Hop ups. These are highly modified, with some home-made parts.

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FluxNZ
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Re: Project Lego Technic

Post by FluxNZ » Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:06 pm

Yeah I saw that they stick down a bit.  I'm looking at putting the Baja turnbuckles back on again so need as much clearance as possible.

Thanks again.
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Post by johny723 » Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:31 pm

The project has been battle tested, and the damage was acceptable, in fact I expected it to be much more serious and worse. I have just had an accident, which was a result of me driving the truck WOT closely to kerbs right now in the darkest night... The car hit that stupid kerb at full speed with the front right wheel, fortunately the damage was limited to the front right cvd and a right plastic tie rod end of the front sway bar. It was a serious hit ( 6kg truck at 60 km/h),  look at the cvd
Image
So I went home to administer the first aid  and it looks much better after a major surgery
Image

LST cvds are strong, when I had savage x ss dogbones, I would bend a dogbone every other bashing, but these have been taking all abuse I offered them for over a year. This precise cvd had been already bent from a similar crash 13 months ago and it still got some life left. I will put it to the rear so that it does not face so much abuse, the structure of the steel must have been altered after 2 major hits.
Everything else has been double checked for further damage, but there are no marks of any other carnage. I guess I built it tough! Nothing else broke, repair time did not exceed 5 minutes and the car returned home in 1 piece! The best result a prototype can achieve!

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Post by FluxNZ » Wed Jun 12, 2013 11:42 pm

Must of been a good hit with a bend like that. Good news they hold up 8)
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Post by rumpity_z28 » Wed Jun 12, 2013 11:45 pm

jeez you did a nice job of straightening it out

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Post by FluxNZ » Thu Jun 13, 2013 4:19 am

Question for you Johny.

What is the distance from the centre of the hex pin the outer bearing/hub? I've got approx 4mm but I really need a bit more distance from the bearing/hub to get this setup to work with my hex (old Nitro Savage 5T 24mm hex).
Last edited by FluxNZ on Thu Jun 13, 2013 2:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by johny723 » Thu Jun 13, 2013 7:42 am

if you need just a bit, it is possible to open the holes with a 3mm file to gain some mm to the length. I did that once to my LST cvds and the cvds are still OK.
Image
check the red circles

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Post by FluxNZ » Thu Jun 13, 2013 2:14 pm

I was also thinking of 4mm wide bearings each side to give me that little bit more but not much of the 4mm wide bearings are on option.
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Post by johny723 » Thu Jun 13, 2013 2:54 pm

http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metric- ... rings.html
avid bearings have some for you! They are a good brand with high quality stuff.
If the budget is tight you also try these http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-8x16-x4-M ... 20c39c808d :D I bet they are copies of first-rate german or japanesse bearings :D

I just measured the distance you wanted and I got 4,5mm from the center of the pin hole to the bearing. Try enlarging those holes to side with a 3mm file Image
my cvds have been running like that for a year or so, I enlarged them by 2mm laterally.
If it was my truck, I would try both options to see which one is tougher and more reliable, altough I think that modding the cvds is the way to go.

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Post by FluxNZ » Thu Jun 13, 2013 3:31 pm

Cheers again for the info:-)
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Post by johny723 » Mon Jul 15, 2013 1:22 pm

an update:
I made a boot for the front diff cup. a couple of balloons + zip ties to keep the dogbone and the diff cup greased and protect from dust and sand
the reason was permanent overheating of the front diff cup, so I decided to keep it greased all the time. Nothing major, around 70 degrees, but I am sure hot temps in this area would cause problems in strength of the bulkhead in the long run.
another update is a stronger bumper. I modified this baja part
Image
it needed trimming and minor modifying, as pretty much everything on my truck :D but it is much stronger than the previous mounting assembly made from old savage arms. way stronger than a stock savage bumper.
I still need a better way how to attach the things together, the white zip ties are a temporary solution as I dont have the screws of a right size at the moment.
here they are:
Image
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Post by johny723 » Mon Jul 15, 2013 5:32 pm

It was so stiff that I cut the bracing in the middle of the bumper holder to gain some flex. Now it works like a charm! Both the bumper and the unknown baja part bend on impact. Shame the weather is bad, I cant wait to test it in the real offroad environment.
Image
One thing I have to fix somehow is a roll bar or some sort of roll cage..... Truggies dont have any, bud this is heavier than any truggy by at least 1,5 kg, current weight now with hpi gt2 tires and 4s 5000mah 40c turnigy battery is 5,9 kg. With badlands it is 5,6 kg :D

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Post by johny723 » Tue Jul 16, 2013 8:05 am

overheating of the front diff cup is gone! my idea of balloon + grease works!
I made a short video of the truck running onroad. I did not have a cameraman, but the vid should give you an ide how it runs. It is almost too tame :D but that is probably due to an old 4s lipo.

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Post by johny723 » Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:24 pm

the video is here

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Post by FluxNZ » Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:32 pm

Handles really well Johny. I need a tripod for my videos instead of one handed driving :)
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Post by johny723 » Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:49 pm

I am curious what the handling will look like with a new fresh pack, I barely get some wheelies now, even with a 100k oil in the center diff. I doubt it is because a lack of motor power or torque because the 1520 in not a weak motor by any means. When it had the old TVP chassis it would wheelie anytime I hit the throttle and it could do backflips on wet grass even on 4s even with heavy lst tires. The center of gravity was considerably higher and the wheelbase was shorter by 6 or 7 cm, but the lipo pack was left unused for 6 months because I did not have any time for rc due to university etc so it is well behind its best days, it does not have the punch a 40C pack should have.

by the way, I dont have a tripod, I just carefully put the smartphone on a fence around the playing court and hoped wind would not start blowing :D

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Post by johny723 » Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:04 pm

a new body has arrived. Now it looks like a monster truck! I really love the look it has now. It gets even better with LST tires!
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Post by FluxNZ » Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:42 pm

Looking good. My preference would to mount it further back towards the back so the front wheel arch lines better with the front wheel/axle. Just makes the over hangs look better :wink:
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Post by johny723 » Thu Oct 24, 2013 6:32 pm

Few updates: The truck needed a stronger spine, the chassis was too bendy and flexed more than I liked, so I added another layer of PCB fibreglass material onto the upper deck. The weight is neglibible, but it is considerably stronger now. Image

I also used savage steering posts to bolt and connect the fibreglass upper deck to the lower alu chassis and thus strenghten the whole chassis even more. They are mounted right on top of the front and the rear brace where they attach to the aluminum chassis, which helps transfer the energy from impacts to the whole truck, instead of just the aluminum chassis. Thus the impact is spread across the whole truck more equally and the energy is distributed to more parts. Or at least that is how I think it works :D But the truck is unarguably much more rigid and tougher than it used to be.  Image


Another mod is adding a MGT roll bar, the truck is now much more comfortable to carry and hold. I also feel better about the battery and electronics when I land on the back, the MGT roll bar takes some hits and protects the middle part of the truck. Image

On the side note, I ran the truck today to see whether everything works as it should and I guess it works. The chassis does not bend more than necessary, the driveline does not bind, the motor mount does not change the gear mesh etc. But I could not restrain myself from doing a few crash tests to see how things really work under bashing circumstances. Unfortunately I unleashed myself probably a bit more than was necessary :D

The result is a broken rear right LST hub carrier, bent 5mm thick rear right shock shaft, bent front right LST CVD and broken rear right rpm arm. The bent CVD was no big issue, but the broken arm put an end to the whole bashing session. Way the rpm arm broke is very strange, it looks as if I hit some rock with the rear right wheel, broke/cut the arm, and the broken arm took the hub and the shaft with it.
here it is Image

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Post by johny723 » Thu Oct 24, 2013 6:32 pm

double post

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Post by FluxNZ » Thu Oct 24, 2013 11:04 pm

The lower probably broke due to you not allowing for the gravitational pull of the moon :)

That was me being a smart arse taken the *censored* from you posting in my project thread :wink:
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